Es Pisang Ijo is one of Indonesia’s most popular traditional desserts, originating primarily from the Makassar region in South Sulawesi. Its presence is marked by an alluring green color, a texture that combines softness and chewiness, and a very refreshing combination of sweet, savory, and cold flavors. More than just a thirst-quenching dish, Es Pisang Ijo is a manifestation of Indonesia’s rich culture and culinary arts that deserves appreciation. Today, the fame of Es Pisang Ijo has crossed provincial borders, making it a culinary ambassador that introduces the flavors of the Archipelago to a wider stage.
Historical Traces and Origins
Understanding the uniqueness of Es Pisang Ijo means tracing its deep history in the traditions of the Bugis and Makassar people of South Sulawesi. This dish has strong roots in local culture and is estimated to have been part of the culinary heritage for centuries.
In the past, Es Pisang Ijo was often served in various traditional ceremonies, important festivals, or as a special takjil (breaking-of-fast meal) menu during the holy month of Ramadan. The Bugis-Makassar people hold firm to the philosophy behind every dish. The bright green color of the banana wrapper is often interpreted as a symbol of prosperity, fertility, and life balance. Meanwhile, the banana, as the main ingredient, symbolizes nature’s gifts and blessings. Therefore, enjoying this dish is an act of respect for ancestral traditions and inherited cultural values.
The spread of Es Pisang Ijo’s popularity outside South Sulawesi occurred along with the mobility of the Bugis-Makassar people and increasing public interest in regional cuisine. Today, Es Pisang Ijo can be easily found in various places, from street food vendors, food stalls in shopping centers, to desserts in prestigious restaurants throughout Indonesia.
Flavor Composition: Getting to Know the Five Main Elements
The key to a perfect portion of Es Pisang Ijo lies in the balance of five main components that synergize, creating a distinctive harmony of taste and texture.
1. Banana (Pisang Raja or Kepok)
The banana is the heart of this dish. The most ideal types are Pisang Raja or Pisang Kepok, chosen for their dense flesh and natural sweetness. This banana must be steamed until completely soft before further processing. The quality of this raw material is crucial; underripe bananas will taste bitter, while overripe ones can easily fall apart and ruin the overall texture.
2. The Green Wrapper (Kulit Pisang Ijo)
This is the element that gives the dish its visual identity and name. The skin is made from a batter consisting of rice flour, coconut milk, sugar, and most importantly, the juice of suji leaves and/or pandan leaves.
- Natural Coloring: Traditionally, the beautiful, striking green color is obtained from the natural extraction of suji and pandan leaves. Besides color, these ingredients also contribute a distinctive fragrant aroma.
- Aroma: Although some modern producers might use food coloring for consistency, the pandan aroma remains an essential flavor that should not be omitted.
- Texture: The batter is cooked while being stirred continuously (a method like making porridge) until it reaches a thick and elastic consistency. A perfectly cooked batter must be able to wrap the entire surface of the banana with an even and smooth layer.
3. White Bubur Sumsum (Savory Vla)
This component acts as the savory flavor foundation that serves to balance the sweetness. Bubur sumsum is made from rice flour and coconut milk cooked with a little salt until it reaches a soft thickness. Its smooth texture and savory coconut milk flavor provide a gentle contrast and enrich the overall taste.
4. Red Syrup (Makassar’s Specialty Syrup)
Traditionally, Es Pisang Ijo uses a special syrup from Makassar, known as Sirup DHT. This syrup has a pink or bright red color and an essence of pisang ambon (Ambon banana) or raspberry flavor. This syrup provides the strong sweet touch. If Sirup DHT is unavailable, raspberry or cocopandan syrup is often used as a substitute, although Sirup DHT is considered to provide the most authentic flavor profile.
5. Shaved Ice and Sweetened Condensed Milk
To perfect it, a generous amount of shaved ice is added for maximum cooling effect. On top, sweetened condensed milk (SKM) is drizzled, adding richness and a much-loved creamy sweet layer.
The Art of Processing: The Creation Stages
Although the recipe is simple, making quality Es Pisang Ijo requires precision and patience in every process.
A. Banana Preparation
- Selection: Choose Pisang Raja or Kepok that are ripe but still firm.
- Cooking: Steam the bananas until fully cooked and let them cool.
- Peeling: Peel the skin off the cooled bananas.
B. Green Skin Processing
- Dry Mixing: Combine rice flour, sugar, and a little salt.
- Liquid Mixing: Pour in coconut milk, suji/pandan juice, and water little by little while stirring until the batter is thin and free of lumps.
- Cooking the Batter: Cook this mixture over medium heat, stirring constantly. The batter will thicken and become sticky. This process must be done until the batter is truly kalis (non-sticky/pliable) and leaves no sticky residue.
C. Wrapping and Final Cooking
- Flattening: Take a portion of the green batter, flatten it on a plastic surface or banana leaf lightly greased with oil.
- Wrapping: Place the banana in the middle of the flattened batter. Cover the banana until its entire surface is tightly sealed, forming a smooth green cylinder.
- Final Steaming: The wrapped bananas are steamed briefly (about 10-15 minutes) to set the skin layer, making it softer and cooked through.
- Cutting: After cooling, the green banana is cut diagonally into several pieces.
D. Making Bubur Sumsum
- Dissolving: Mix rice flour, coconut milk, and salt.
- Cooking: Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until the porridge thickens, becomes soft, and has a smooth texture.
E. Serving
- Base: Place the white bubur sumsum as a base in the serving bowl.
- Arrangement: Arrange the pieces of Pisang Ijo on top of the porridge.
- Cooling: Add shaved ice until it covers the banana.
- Topping: Drizzle with Red Syrup (DHT or raspberry) and add a finishing touch of drizzled sweetened condensed milk.
Cultural Meaning and Culinary Relevance
Es Pisang Ijo is a beautiful reflection of Indonesian culinary principles that emphasize the use of natural ingredients and meticulous preparation processes.
Cultural Symbolism
The green color of the banana skin has a deep philosophical meaning. In the context of Bugis-Makassar society, green represents nature, fertility, prosperity, and hope. Its aesthetic and orderly presentation shows respect for tradition and also beauty in simplicity.
Tropical Climate Adaptation
As a dish born in a tropical region, Es Pisang Ijo is the perfect solution to relieve the heat. The combination of the porridge’s soft texture, the fruit’s sweetness, the intense syrup, and the shaved ice provides a comfort food sensation that is very refreshing and calming in hot weather.
Utilization of Local Resources
This dish also reflects local wisdom in utilizing abundant agricultural products. Bananas, coconut milk, and rice flour are major agricultural commodities in Sulawesi. The transformation of these simple ingredients into a delicious dish shows the high creativity of the local community.
Contemporary Adaptation and Innovation
As times change, Es Pisang Ijo has also undergone several adjustments to remain popular with modern consumers:
- Creative Toppings: Although the original version relies only on syrup and sweetened condensed milk, many variations now add toppings like grated cheddar cheese, chocolate cereals, or slices of other fruits.
- Porridge Flavor Variants: Some vendors try to experiment by adding flavors to the bubur sumsum, such as chocolate or taro, although this can shift the authentic traditional taste.
- Practical Presentation: For convenience, Es Pisang Ijo is now widely offered in takeaway packaging, making it easy to enjoy as a snack or meal on the go.
Es Pisang Ijo transcends its function as a delicious dessert. It is a culinary heritage that carries stories of history, customs, and the local wisdom of the South Sulawesi people. Every spoonful presents an amazing blend of textures—the chewiness of the wrapper, the softness of the porridge, the richness of the banana flavor, and the freshness of the ice—making it one of Indonesia’s culinary assets that must be preserved. Its widespread presence shows how closely flavor and tradition are intertwined in the nation’s culinary identity.
With the strengthening movement to popularize traditional foods, Es Pisang Ijo will continue to shine as a green gem among the diversity of Nusantara’s (the Archipelago’s) desserts. This dish is tangible proof that enduring delicacy often comes from simple recipes passed down with love and care from generation to generation.
